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A baseball bat is only as good as the wood it’s made from. My selection process begins with the inspection of the rough timbers. After the kiln drying process, the maple and ash timbers are stacked on stickers, allowing the free movement of air throughout. The temperature is constant and the wood is acclimatized to the environment in the shop. The moisture content is brought down to an average of 6 percent before the rough timbers are milled down to rough billet dimensions.  I inspect the wood again, selecting for straight, flat grain, no cathedral or arched grain is used. The grain is then counted. 6 to 10 per inch is ideal for pro grade bats. Next, I check for knots as well as knot saddles. These are prone to popping out and many are overlooked by some companies just trying to get any bat out of every billet.
Next I mill each rough billet to the size it will be when I take it to the lathe. I inspect these billets again, searching for hidden bark pockets, pin knots, and twist. Any billets with these problems and defects are removed.
Then each blank is weighed. Wood density varies. Even billets of the same weight can yield the same model and length of bat but with a different weight.
Once all the blanks are weighed, they are stacked in separate categories, based on the model and length they will become.
 The next step is the lathe. The latest CNC technology is utilized to take the billet and turn it into the appropriate bat model. I have seven separate profiles, but with the barrel, handle, flare, and knob options available on each one, you literally have over 10,750 bats to choose from. It sounds impressive and it is. There is absolutely a bat for every hitter!
Once the bat is turned, the next thing to check for is vibration. The lathe weighs over 2700 pounds so any vibration is in the wood itself. Vibration means the bat has a warp and even a slight one is a trip to the scrap pile. Also, some knots that are not visible show up as vibration and those too, are culled.
Next I sand. I hand sand all my bats. After years of hand turning on the lathe, I have found that sanding by hand is the best way to get a feel for the life of the bat. Every bat gets sanded to 1200 grit and then hand burnished. Even with no finish yet applied, the bat is now so clear, I can actually see my reflection in the wood, it’s that smooth!
Now the bat is pulled from the lathe and the finish is applied. Everyone says they have the greatest secret finish in the world but all good bat shops use a sealer and a good catalyzed finish which is applied over the stain selected to give each bat its particular color.  The catalyzed finishes are harder and more durable, enhancing the woods’ own moisture resistant qualities. Mine actually is the best, at least everyone who buys a Journeyman says so! Truthfully, the finish is a 7 step process that I allow 48 hours to cure.
After the initial clear coat, the bats are color sanded and taken to the engraver. The logo, the model number the player name and the team name are all engraved on each bat. When you buy a Journeyman it comes with your name on it. It’s not an extra, it’s part of your bat.
After engraving, the final clear coats are applied, and the final weight is taken. Your bat is now ready to ship.
The only complaint I get is some players say their bat is so beautiful they’re not sure if they should swing it or put it in a glass case!
By not taking shortcuts in the selection, turning, and finishing process, you may be assured that every bat will yield enhanced life span, superior balance, maximum shock resistance and aesthetic appeal equal to if not greater than any bat made, period.
To start your order, click on the following link for the type of bat you want.
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